Where I Wander

THE PANTHEON IN ROME (September 10, 2010) The piazza was a busy...

Wed, 13 Mar 2013 19:43:00 +0800

The famous coffered dome with an oculus that serves as the structure's main source of light.

The Fontana del Pantheon.

THE PANTHEON IN ROME (September 10, 2010)

The piazza was a busy sight—what with the construction taking place at the Pantheon’s portico, the horses and their carriages ambling about the cobbled courtyard, and the mob of tourists contemplating the facade of what is considered one of Rome’s best preserved buildings. It began to drizzle, and so I rushed past the Fontana del Pantheon, between the portico’s massive columns and into the cylindrical structure, which was a temple dedicated to the gods of ancient Rome, and is now a church consecrated to the holy virgin Mary and all the martyrs.

The Pantheon itself was no less busy. While it was curiously silent inside, throngs of people advanced from niche to niche marveling at the rotunda’s many frescoes and statues, its rich architectural detail, and the tombs of painter Raphael and kings Victor Emmanuel II and Umberto I, all housed inside.

But clearly the most awesome view in this historic landmark is the one facing the Pantheon’s dome. Gaze upward and everything else vanishes; you are alone in awe of the ceiling’s overwhelming size, its painted recessed panels, and the open oculus—the church’s main source of light—staring back at you from heaven. Raindrops were finding their way through the dome’s eye when I stood there, and I thought that was such a peaceful sight.

THE CENTRAL GARDEN, GETTY CENTER, LOS ANGELES (June 7,...

Sun, 03 Mar 2013 02:16:00 +0800

THE CENTRAL GARDEN, GETTY CENTER, LOS ANGELES (June 7, 2012)

Even before exploring the galleries of the J. Paul Getty Museum in L.A., Eileen, Selene and I decided to take a leisurely stroll through the Getty Center’s Central Garden, a 134,000 square foot area masterfully designed not by a landscaper, but by painter Robert Irwin.

Here, a tree-lined path opens up to parasols of red bougainvillea that lead to a waterfall cascading over a stone wall. The stream descends onto a circular pond on which sits a most magnificent maze of azalea. Around the water, foliage of every shade of green and blooms of a spectrum’s every hue greet visitors who venture around the space. The textures are rich, the fragrance, thickly sweet.

To me, there is something comforting about a well-kept garden. Perhaps because I grew up in house surrounded by a beautiful one, so diligently and lovingly cared for by mother, you could feel it in the air. It feels no different at the Central Garden. I could spend hours here.

24TH STREET MINI PARK AND THE QUETZALCOATL MOSAIC SNAKE, SAN...

Sat, 02 Mar 2013 01:48:00 +0800

24TH STREET MINI PARK AND THE QUETZALCOATL MOSAIC SNAKE, SAN FRANCISCO (May 30, 2012)

Weaving through the streets of San Francisco’s Mission district to explore the neighborhood’s famous murals, Selene and I chance upon fascinating mini park at 24th and York.

Dominating the playful space is a giant mosaic snake adorned with a kaleidoscope of broken commercial tile and pieces of handmade tile. The figure represents the Mesoamerican deity, Quetzacoatl—a feathered serpent regarded as a primordial god of creation, a wise legislator, the bringer of culture, the patron of priests and of the arts and crafts. Fashioned by local artists Colette Crutcher, her husband Mark Roller, and their friend Aileen Barr, the snake seems sprawled across a stretch of red clay; and the children don’t mind its imposing presence—they climb its girth, glide down its length, and dodge spouts of water from the fountain at its side.

Surrounding the park are dazzlingly vibrant murals, many the work of Miguel Rios, the genius behind much of Santana’s album art in the 70s.

There is something about the vibe of this mini park that speaks to me. The art feels sincere and authentic, lovingly created, teeming with spirit. What a wonderful spot to cradle the neighborhood’s kids.

GOVERNOR’S ISLAND, HUNDRED ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK,...

Wed, 20 Feb 2013 11:47:00 +0800

GOVERNOR’S ISLAND, HUNDRED ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK, PANGASINAN (Februrary 16, 2013)

Once again, music takes me to places I’ve never been to. Last weekend, hosts of our concert in Pangasinan arranged for us to visit the Hundred Islands National Park. First stop, Governor’s Island.

From Lucap Wharf, Governor’s Island, one of the more popular of the Hundred Islands of Alaminos, is about a 30-minute boat ride away. Easily identified from afar by the Pinoy Big Brother house that stands on its shore (it may be leased per night), the island is known for its stairway that allows trekkers to hike up its rocky hill. The climb will be a challenge to the thighs, for sure; but the view from the peak of the surrounding islands and expanse of blue water and sky is the prize for your effort. Thankfully, bottles of water and pouches of snack food are available at the bottom of the stairs. Before departing for the next island, pose for a shot at the mouth of the shallow cave across the steps.

DICALATAN ISLAND, PALAWAN (March 16, 2012) The joy of being a...

Mon, 04 Feb 2013 20:00:00 +0800

DICALATAN ISLAND, PALAWAN (March 16, 2012)

The joy of being a traveling musician is in reaching the hidden spaces where music takes you. A concert in Culion, Palawan last year led us to a little known island whose waters reflected every shade of blue.

Roughly an hour boat ride away from Culion, Dicalatan is a pleasant hideaway with just enough sand, sky and sea to envelop your spirit and refresh you for half a day. Come with a picnic basket filled to the brim.

XANADU GALLERY, SAN FRANCISCO (May 31, 2012)Just a short walk...

Mon, 15 Oct 2012 00:38:00 +0800

A tile on the building's edifice serves as Wright's signature.

XANADU GALLERY, SAN FRANCISCO (May 31, 2012)

Just a short walk from Union Square in San Francisco is a gallery that houses an extensive array of artifacts, textiles, and jewelry from Asia, Oceania, and Latin America. Xanadu Gallery sits inside the city’s only building designed by visionary architect, Frank Lloyd Wright.

Originally constructed in 1912, the building was home to the V.C. Morris Gift Shop, which in 1948 the Morrises decided to expand and remodel with Wright’s help. During that time, Wright was already deeply involved in working on New York’s Guggenheim Museum. But because that controversial project took much longer to complete, the gift shop was constructed way before the museum, allowing Wright to use it as a prototype for the Guggenheim’s famous spiral.

Today, the building on 140 Maiden Lane, its brick Romanesque arch, and its legendary circular ramp, are a hidden gem for all to uncover.

GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM, NEW YORK (June 1, 2012) Frank Lloyd...

Sun, 14 Oct 2012 16:22:00 +0800

GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM, NEW YORK (June 1, 2012)

Frank Lloyd Wright’s architectural icon in New York City, which continues to house the world’s most important exhibitions in modern and contemporary art, is in itself a magnificent sight to behold.

Critics wondered, when the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum was created, if it would overpower the pieces of art that it was designed to showcase. And while tourists (including myself) do make their way to Fifth Avenue between 88th and 89th Streets to marvel in part at the circular structure, it is precisely this aesthetic that allows visitors to appreciate the works inside. Resembling a nautilus, the museum ushers tourists to the top of the building via an elevator, and allows them to amble downward by means of a spiral slope to enjoy the immense walls that carry the pieces on exhibit. Meanwhile, the open rotunda at the ground floor affords everyone an amazing view of concentric circles above.

It took over 15 years to complete this project, as many had contested the architect’s vision for the museum (to begin with, Wright was not pleased to build his masterpiece in overpopulated NYC). Neither Wright nor Guggenheim would live long enough to see the finished product. Nonetheless, they’ve left behind for everyone to view, a spectacular structure that would forever be remembered as sheer architectural genius.

THE FASHION WORLD OF JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER: FROM SIDEWALK TO...

Sat, 09 Jun 2012 07:57:00 +0800

Talking mannequins.

Showroom.

Androgenous pants.

Dress made of Philippine placemats.

A decadent take on denim.

The face of Africa.

A runway of mannequins.

Some sketches from Gaultier.

Movies featuring the designer's works.

A piece designed for San Francisco.

THE FASHION WORLD OF JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER: FROM SIDEWALK TO CATWALK

Every time I find myself in San Francisco, I drop by the De Young museum at the Golden Gate Park for a quick burst of inspiration—and this year, as always, my visit did not disappoint. The exhibit of Jean-Paul Gaultier was as whimsical and irreverent as the French fashion designer, fondly nicknamed the enfant terrible.

Corsets, man-skirts, cone-bras, headdresses, and other pieces of clothing that know no gender filled the museum’s halls. These were accompanied by Gaultier’s sketches, a moving catwalk, photographs of celebrities donning his creations, feature films showcasing his decadent designs, and tons of anecdotes about his illustrious career pinned to the museum walls (Who knew that in 1974, Gaultier looked after Pierre Cardin’s store in the Philippines, where he designed clothes for Imelda Marcos?). Most amusing, however, were the mannequins with faces projected onto their heads. The projections allowed them to wink, roll their eyes, and smirk, while cleverly hidden speakers made the figures to whisper, announce and sing, all to complete the attitude that matched Gaultier’s clever creations.

THE FASHION WORLD OF JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER: FROM SIDEWALK TO CATWALK runs at the De Young Museum until August 19, 2012.

THE SEA OF GALILEE & THE CHURCH OF THE MULTIPLICATION It is...

Thu, 05 Apr 2012 02:32:00 +0800

THE SEA OF GALILEE & THE CHURCH OF THE MULTIPLICATION

It is the location where Jesus conducted much of his ministry. It is where he called some fishermen to come follow him. It is where he performed many of his miracles—calming the sea, walking on the water, and by its shore, multiplying the loaves and fishes.

The Sea of Galilee is really a fresh-water lake in northern Israel, measuring 13 by 8 miles. Beside it, in a field with many palm trees, a church commemorating the feeding of the five thousand was built in about 350 AD. The structure was enlarged by about 480 AD and incorporated an intricate floor mosaic; however, it was destroyed at around 685 AD. The site was eventually bought by the Deutsche Verien vom Heilige Lande and excavated in 1932. In 1982, the structure was replaced by the modern Church of the Multiplication that stands today. It is a faithful reconstruction of the original.

LONG BEACH @ DEMPSEY HILL, SINGAPORE (21 January 2012) When...

Mon, 30 Jan 2012 19:14:00 +0800

The original black pepper crabs.

Chili crabs in a rich savory sauce.

Fried buns to mop up the chili sauce.

Deep-fried and uber crispy baby squid.

Garlicky razor clams are a must.

House specialty prawns.

Sambal vegetable.

LONG BEACH @ DEMPSEY HILL, SINGAPORE (21 January 2012)

When talking about dining in Singapore, I naturally think of chili and black pepper crabs (apart of course from the ubiquitous laksa and cereal prawns). And so during a recent trip to the island country, some friends and I decided to pit the two crab recipes against each other—and what better place to do that than at the historic Long Beach seafood restaurant, set up in 1946, and credited for creating the original black pepper crabs.

Ok, so we went to the restaurant’s more recent branch at Dempsey Hill, but every dish we sampled there seemed steeped in years of culinary tradition. We feasted first on super crispy fried squids, succulent house specialty prawns, plus the must-have giant razor clams in garlic and glass noodles, all between spoonfuls of fried rice laced with crunchy silverfish.

Then it was time to savor our crab dishes. Both were spicy and flavorful—we had no choice but get our fingers dirty to dig out the delicious and fleshy crab meat. Minutes later, we agreed that the black pepper crab seemed to boast of a more distinct taste and a tangy brightness that the crushed peppercorns had over the rich and sweet sauce of the chili crabs. And so while I may order both again during a next trip, the black pepper crabs may have me smacking my lips more often.

Location: Blk 25 #01-01, Dempsey Road
Tel: 6323 2222
Open: 11am-3pm (Lunch); 5:30pm-1:30am (Dinner)
URL: www.longbeachseafood.com.sg

THE BASILICA OF ST JOHN, EPHESUS, TURKEY (September 13, 2010) It...

Sun, 15 Jan 2012 11:42:00 +0800

THE BASILICA OF ST JOHN, EPHESUS, TURKEY (September 13, 2010)

It is said that after John was instructed by Jesus to take care of Mary after Christ’s death (John 19:26-27), the apostle took her to Ephesus where he eventually authored the Fourth Gospel and the Book of Revelation. Legend has it that John, aged 98, died on Ayasoluk Hill, the spot where now stands the ruins of the church built in his name.

St. John’s tomb, located under the basilica’s main central dome, elevated the site to one of the most sacred places in the Middle Ages; but after Arab raids, the church fell into ruins and was converted into a mosque in 1330. The structure was then completely destroyed in 1402 by Tamerlane’s Mongol army.

Recent restoration, however, allows visitors to understand the basilica’s size and visualize its former splendor.

THE BASILICA OF AGONY/CHURCH OF ALL NATIONS, JERUSALEM...

Wed, 02 Nov 2011 01:29:00 +0800

THE BASILICA OF AGONY/CHURCH OF ALL NATIONS, JERUSALEM (September 16, 2010)

Located on the east bank of the Kidron valley, at the foothill of the Mount of Olives, the Basilica of Agony in Jerusalem is a magnificent church, built on the site where Jesus is said to have made his last prayer before being betrayed by Judas and arrested by the Romans.

Several churches on this location had been constructed and destroyed prior to the completion in 1924 of the current basilica built by the Franciscans through donations made by 12 nations.

Surrounding this structure are ancient olive trees, perhaps descendants of those that lived during the time of Jesus. And inside, on the floor of the main hall, lays a flat rock, which according to tradition is the precise point where Jesus uttered, “My Father, if it is possible, may this cup be taken from me. Yet not as I will, but as you will.”

THE CALIFORNIA ACADEMY OF SCIENCES (September 25,...

Sat, 08 Oct 2011 23:05:00 +0800

Claude, the albino American alligator.

A chameleon tries to blur itself.

The rainforest sphere is astonishing.

Graceful aquatic creatures.

The Philippine Coral Reef Gallery.

Surrounded by fish.

The African penguins are a delight.

The Water Planet Gallery.

Diorama at the natural history museum.

I will be back.

THE CALIFORNIA ACADEMY OF SCIENCES (September 25, 2010)

Discouraged by the endless queue that greeted me in July of 2009, I was ecstatic that the crowd had dissipated when I tried my luck again in September 2010. The California Academy of Sciences, after all, had just reopened its completely overhauled building complex in late 2008, attracting droves to its 4-storey tropical rainforest, digital planetarium, all-new aquarium, and museum of natural history. Toting our cameras, Selene and I made a stop at the Academy Cafe for a late but quick breakfast before starting our journey.

The rainforest exhibit is the biggest of its kind where species from crawling lizards to free-flying birds congregate in a spectacular glass sphere. My favorite, the Morrison Planetarium, is the largest all-digital dome in the world, with fully-reclining seats that give observers an awesome view of the universe, through marvelously produced digital videos that intrigue and mesmerize. The Steinhart Aquarium features among others the Philippine Coral Reef Gallery with its diverse and colorful range of aquatic life from eels and anemones to stingrays and sharks. And the Kimball Natural History Museum showcases magnificent dioramas housing mounted animals that represent Africa’s rich ecosystem.

The curious eye will have much to witness at the California Academy of Science. I myself have much more to absorb. But for sure, I will come back on a Thursday night, when the complex transforms into hip, gimmick spot, and visitors can sip designer cocktails while bobbing to the music of a live band or DJ. Care to join me?

Entrance to the museum is free every third Wednesday of the month.

THE SPANISH STEPS, ROME, ITALY (September 8, 2010) Dusk was fast...

Wed, 28 Sep 2011 19:10:00 +0800

The Trinità dei Monti

Top of the first flight

Spanish square which is triangualr

The Colonna dell'Immacolata nearby

Right: final home of poet John Keats

The ladies relax

To see and to be seen

THE SPANISH STEPS, ROME, ITALY (September 8, 2010)

Dusk was fast approaching. With maps in hand, we scampered through the streets of Rome toward the last tourist attraction for the day before rewarding ourselves with some real Italian chow. Our final destination, the Spanish Steps.

Also known as Scalinata della Trinita dei Monti, the 137 steps spreading over 12 different flights intersect and fan out to connect the Trinita dei Monti—a French church that towers above the steps, to the Piazza di Spagna—the triangular plaza below named after the Spanish Embassy to the Holy See. Today, they remain to be among the most majestic urban monuments of Roman Baroque style, adored by tourists and locals who fancy the steps as a gathering place, or in my case, a spot to rest my tired feet.

I was ready for my pasta and bottle of Peroni.

PACIFICA PIER & MORI POINT, PACIFICA, CALIFORNIA (March 31,...

Mon, 26 Sep 2011 01:07:00 +0800

The Chit Chat Cafe

Sister and nephew

Christian versus the tree

Scene from a horror flick

How many stairs again?

Relief at the top of the steps

At Mori Point

View from above

PACIFICA PIER & MORI POINT, PACIFICA, CALIFORNIA (March 31, 2011)

Strolling outdoors is a luxury I’ve not indulged in too often. Going out for a walk in Manila is absurd—you can suffocate from the pollution or pass out from the heat. But in San Francisco, and after pigging out carelessly at an Asian buffet place in the city, Eileen, Christian and I thought that a leisurely promenade was the responsible thing to do. But where?

Heading toward Pacifica via the Pacific Coast Highway, my sister suggested that we stop by the pier for our walk. “Where?” I asked again. I’ve been visiting Eileen in the U.S. since the 80s, and have not once been taken to the so called Pacifica Pier.

And so we parked by the Chit Chat Cafe which marks the entrance to the pier and walked along the length of the structure, passing men with their fishing rods and dodging gulls in mid flight. Ambling back to the parking lot, we decided to proceed to Mori Point—a substantial distance away that required us to climb a small hill, but allowed us a refreshing view of the ocean.

I do not know how long we were actually hiking. Who was counting the minutes? The heartfelt conversation, apart from the splendid sights, were enough to distract us from the time (and the discomfort of walking the distance).

Though I suspect we burned 300 calories.

SORELLA AT MANHATTAN'S LOWER EAST SIDE

Sun, 26 Jun 2011 05:15:36 +0800

It was a rainy April night in NYC, and I was scurrying umbrella-less from the subway station toward the apartment building of a high school chum I was eager to meet. I’ve always known George to have a sophisticated palate, and so I was sure that wherever he was taking me for dinner was worth braving the inclement weather for (besides, it was 5 years since I had last seen my friend).

And so we headed on to Manhattan’s Lower East Side, in particular to a wine bar that pays homage to the food and drink of the Italian countryside that is Piedmont. SORELLA is known for its small plates celebrating the rich, bold tastes of the region that inspires its dishes. And no other plate seemed richer or bolder than SORELLA’s PATE DE FEGATO—a toasted rectangle of English muffin brushed with flavorful duck fat, slathered with a velvety mousse of chicken liver, stippled with a handful of candied bacon, and finished with a perfectly-trimmed fried egg. How sumptuous is that?

Every mouthful we consumed at SORELLA was a splendid burst of flavor, but it’s the PATE DE FEGATO that occupies my mind—divine! As SORELLA’s owner/chef Emma Hearst declares about the duck fat in the dish: It’s God’s butter.

SORELLA is at 95 Allen Street, New York, NY; Tel: (212) 274-9595

Photo credit: The Feedbag, 12/09/2008

HOUSE OF THE VIRGIN, EPHESUS, TURKEY (September 13, 2010) In...

Mon, 20 Jun 2011 23:59:00 +0800

The Virgin welcomes pilgrims

Evidence of a baptismal font

The restored dwelling is now a chapel

Pilgrims queue up to enter the house

A wall of prayers

Holy water from a spring

Mementos

HOUSE OF THE VIRGIN, EPHESUS, TURKEY (September 13, 2010)

In directing his 2004 film, The Passion of the Christ, Mel Gibson was supposed to have been influenced by the book, The Dolorous Passion—a vivid and graphic account of the sorrowful passion of Jesus according to the meditations of Blessed Anne Catherine Emmerich. Early in her life, the German nun had had visions in which she would be talking with Christ, and later on would live out Jesus’ passion through stigmata impressed upon her own body. Her wounds, it is said, would reopen on Good Friday.

Anne Catherine Emmerich’s visions were also responsible for identifying what is believed to be the house of the Virgin Mary near Ephesus in Turkey—visions created without her ever having visited the city, which after all had not yet been excavated then. The nun had described the place in exact detail: the rectangular stone house which had a fireplace, an apse and a round back wall; and Mary’s bedroom, which had a spring running under it. While the Roman Catholic Church has never pronounced the authenticity of the house for lack of scientifically acceptable evidence, Pope Pius XII elevated the domicile to the status of a Holy Place (it was and is, after all, venerated by Christians and Muslims), a privilege later made permanent by Pope John XXIII.

A trip last year to the sacred site piqued my curiosity. Why would anyone consider holy, a house that had appeared in someone else’s dream? It is said that St. John the Evangelist brought Mary with him to Ephesus after Jesus had consigned her to his care (John 19:26-27), and two facts seem to support this claim: the presence in Ephesus of 1) St. John’s tomb, and 2) the world’s first basilica dedicated to the Virgin.

In the end, I do not think it likely that any definitive scientific evidence will ever be found to prove Sister Emmerich’s visions to be more than a fantasy. But to me, what is utterly convincing is how the structure near Ephesus stands for everything I have known about the Mother of God—how the dwelling place represents absolute humility while remaining unshaken throughout the generations, as Mary’s faith had been, amidst a world of disbelief.

THE MALTBY CAFE

Sun, 08 May 2011 15:19:00 +0800

“Set your alarm clocks,” Stan had urged Jandi and me before we turned in for the night. He and his wife Oreli, hosts during our brief stay in Washington state, were eager to treat us to the best breakfast in town early the next day, and wanted to make sure we wouldn’t be held up by the long queues that can often form at The Maltby Cafe. And why not? The unassuming restaurant in Snohomish has, after all, received countless food awards since it opened its doors to the public in the 80s.

Nestled in what used to be the gymnasium of a wooden schoolhouse built in 1937, the cafe oozes with rustic country charm, the air about it brimming with the aroma of sweet and savory spices. My tummy was growling in anticipation.

The menu was packed. Buttermilk biscuits and granola pancakes, marionberry muffins, Jarlsberg Swiss and Tillamook cheddar cheeses, maple pecan butter, link sausages and honey baked ham—too much to choose from, and it seemed every item on the list was a winner. I’m sure my choirmates TJ, Sheerin, and Sherlyn would agree.

To tide us over, we started off with Maltby’s famous cinnamon rolls, one of which, swimming in a river of walnut frosting, was enough to feed a dozen hungry and sweet-toothed diners.

In the end, I went for the California Eggs Benedict—a platter of three perfectly poached eggs, which when sliced, blended with the rich hollandaise sauce to coat the avocado and tomato slices that rested on a split buttermilk biscuit. Couple that with the brightly seasoned country fried red potatoes, and you’ve got a big and tasty breakfast that’s enough to sustain you for the rest of the day.

I was pumped up for the grueling rehearsals and concert that await us.

ONE BEACON COURT Ambling aimlessly in the searing heat around my...

Fri, 06 May 2011 18:14:29 +0800

ONE BEACON COURT

Ambling aimlessly in the searing heat around my modest hotel in Midtown Manhattan, I glanced upward, and squinting, noticed a tower of metallic blue reflecting light from the mid-morning sun. I drew closer and came a cross a huge podium at the base of the skyscraper. The prospect of shade was inviting. And all at once, I was enveloped in a sea of cool glass.

The address is ONE BEACON COURT, at 731 Lexington Avenue between East 58th and 59th streets. Otherwise known as the BLOOMBERG TOWER, the building houses the headquarters of Bloomberg L.P. (the financial news company), an office for Citigroup, a series of posh retail outlets, and high-ceiling condominium residences.

Much to behold. As I looked upward again, it seemed like a giant eye was staring at me.

livelovebuild: mmm my two favorite things, cake and my nikon...

Thu, 05 May 2011 00:40:00 +0800

livelovebuild: mmm my two favorite things, cake and my nikon :)

MY SENTIMENTS EXACTLY.